Rosh Hashanah is my favorite Jewish holiday. What can I say? I’m a sentimental person who cherishes the concept of new beginnings, embracing fresh paths, and embarking on exciting adventures.
Not long ago, I had the opportunity to speak at a conference in Tuscany, where my presentation focused on the topic of Jewish food in Italy. This intriguing subject often doesn't receive the attention it rightly deserves. I'm constantly surprised by how many Italians perceive Jewish cuisine as foreign or exotic when, in reality, Jews have been a part of Italy for over 2,000 years, long before Christianity took root in the country.
Many popular Italian dishes today feature vegetables introduced by Jewish-Iberian merchants in the 16th century, particularly tomatoes and eggplants. Furthermore, numerous recipes that have become staples in the Italian culinary tradition, such as sarde in saor—the iconic fish dish from Venice—actually have deep Jewish roots, gaining wider popularity among the general populace only later on.
What are the classic Jewish-Italian dishes for Rosh Hashanah?
As I prepared for my upcoming conference talk, I sought to incorporate some traditional Italian dishes into my Rosh Hashanah Seder. I began by exploring my favorite Jewish-Italian cookbooks, which highlight beloved classics such as polpette di pollo con sedano (chicken meatballs in a tomato and celery sauce, a specialty of Roman Jews), stroncatelli (a long pasta akin to spaghetti, favored by the Jewish community in Ancona, eastern Italy), calzonicchi (half-moon-shaped pasta), triglie alla mosaica (red mullet fillets in tomato sauce), and zucca fritta (fried pumpkin, typically served with honey).
Many of these recipes stem from times of hardship, crafted to maximize the potential of limited ingredients while preserving culinary tradition.
Today, we are fortunate to live in a time of abundant resources, which has allowed me to broaden our menu and showcase some exquisite seasonal Tuscan dishes—September truly is the finest month here in Tuscany! Each dish is thoughtfully crafted to represent a traditional simanim (sign) of the Rosh Hashanah seder: squash, leeks, honey, pomegranate, and apples. These symbolic ingredients are integral to the holiday and are always included in our offerings.
Delicious Italian Cheese
While cheese may not traditionally be associated with Rosh Hashanah, as a certified master cheese taster, I couldn't resist sharing my recent experience at the incredible Bra Cheese Festival 2019. This biannual event, organized by the Slow Food movement, showcases hundreds of producers from Italy and various European countries. It would be a shame to deny my guests the exquisite cheeses I discovered there!
For our antipasto, I prepared dried apricots soaked in port wine and stuffed with Roquefort cheese, accompanied by a tagliere of locally sourced, organic grapes and figs—100% Tuscan, of course. Additionally, I selected six award-winning cheeses from some of my favorite artisanal producers in Tuscany and Piedmont.
Fare La Scarpetta
For a twist on the traditional fish dish, I opted for polpette di baccalà, or cod-fish balls, instead of my grandmother’s gefilte fish or the usual over-baked salmon with herbs. This slightly modified version of a classic recipe from Livorno, on the Tuscan coast, was paired with a rich tomato sauce. The proper way to enjoy the sauce is to "mop it off the plate" with a piece of challah bread. :) In Italian, this delightful act of soaking up sauce and leaving the plate clean is called “fare la scarpetta,” which literally translates to “to make a little shoe.”
Keep it Sweet
The traditional honey-drizzled pumpkin dish has been transformed into a delicate pumpkin-cream galette, infused with nutmeg and cinnamon, and generously topped with toasted sesame seeds.
Since leek fritters are a highlight of any Rosh Hashanah meal, I wasn’t about to skip them! Though they require some effort, the reward is well worth it. Finally, no Rosh Hashanah celebration in my home is complete without roasted onions stuffed with a savory blend of rice, lentils, pomegranates, and spices, alongside a classic honey cake.
Shana tova from Tuscany, everyone!