Drunken Risotto - The Fail-Proof Recipe for a Creamy Risotto Made With Barbera Wine
I absolutely love risotto—it’s a rich, creamy, and flavorful dish that can be a true delight. However, for years, I shied away from making it at home because the preparation seemed so tedious. The thought of laboring over it always deterred me.
Creating a good risotto requires a solid understanding of the cooking technique: overcook it, and you risk ending up with an unappetizing mush; undercook it, and you’ll face hard, stubborn grains swimming in a starchy sauce.
Recently, I decided to confront my risotto fears and prepare it correctly at home. With invaluable tips from my friend Stefano, a Tuscan chef renowned for his incredible risottos, I felt ready to take on the challenge. And I was right! Once I mastered the process, there was no stopping me. I whipped up plate after plate of exquisite risottos and never looked back.
The Right Rice - Which Rice Should You Use to Make Risotto?
A great risotto starts with the right type of rice. While several varieties are suitable for making risotto, Arborio and Carnaroli are the most well-known and widely available. Another lesser-known option is Nano Vialone, which originates from Veneto and is definitely worth considering. Personally, I prefer Carnaroli and Nano Vialone, as they are not only easier to work with but also yield superior results. These smaller grains retain their texture during cooking, release starch gradually, and help achieve a perfectly balanced risotto with individual grains that maintain a delightful al dente bite. Both varieties are excellent choices for this recipe.
Essential Tips to Keep in Mind When Making Any Type of Risotto
When preparing risotto, keep these essential rules in mind for the best results:
Toast the rice before adding liquids: Always toast or lightly sauté the rice grains over low heat. This coats them in a thin layer of oil or butter, helping them retain their shape and preventing a mushy texture. While some Italian chefs suggest dry-roasting for a minute or two, I find that a combination of olive oil and butter yields superior results.
Use a wide pot: This small detail can make a significant difference. Narrow, tall pots can result in uneven cooking and a less-than-ideal risotto.
Add broth slowly and gently: When incorporating your broth, do so gradually using a wooden spoon and a small ladle. This ensures you don't overwhelm the rice with too much liquid at once. Wait until about 85% of the liquid has been absorbed before adding more. It's better to start with less and adjust as needed than to overdo it and compromise your dish.
Trust your taste buds, not the timer: Don’t rely solely on package or recipe instructions for cooking time. The perfect timing can vary based on numerous factors. After about 10 minutes of cooking, start tasting the rice. Remove a grain, bite into it, and when it’s cooked but still al dente, turn off the heat. The residual warmth will continue to cook the rice even after it’s off the stove.
Master the “mantecatura”: In Italian, mantecare means to add cream or butter to give a dish a creamy texture. This crucial step enhances the overall richness of your risotto, so don’t skip it!
Now that you have the tips, let’s get cooking!
Drunk Risotto - Risotto al Barbera with Gorgonzola Cheese
Northern Italy boasts various iterations of the classic "drunk risotto." Among the most renowned is Risotto all'Amarone, which features Amarone wine—an exceptional dish that I highly recommend trying during your next visit to Verona. Another popular option is Risotto al Barolo, made with the esteemed Barolo wine. However, since both Amarone and Barolo are among Italy’s finest wines, many might hesitate to use nearly half a bottle (priced between $70 and $80) for a risotto. As a result, similar recipes emerged, utilizing delicious yet more affordable wines, such as the vibrant and fruity Barbera.
Ingredients for Four Servings:
250 grams of rice (I used Nano Vialone, but Carnaroli would work beautifully as well).
Half a red onion, finely chopped.
1 tablespoon of olive oil.
80 grams of butter, divided into two portions: 40 grams for coating the rice and 40 grams for the mantecatura.
2 glasses (480 ml) of Barbera wine. If Barbera isn't available, opt for another fruity red wine of good quality—remember, if you wouldn't enjoy drinking it, don't cook with it!
Between 900 ml and 1000 ml of vegetable stock (you might not need the entire amount; I prepared a liter but only used 900 ml).
100 grams of finely grated Pecorino, Grana Padano, or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Avoid using mozzarella or similar cheeses, as they will compromise the texture and result in a stringy dish. We want a hard, nutty, slightly aged cheese that melts seamlessly into the hot rice.
150 grams of gorgonzola cheese, cut into cubes.
Preparation:
In a large, wide pot, melt 40 grams of butter over low to medium heat. Add a tablespoon of olive oil and sauté the red onion, taking care not to brown it; we just want to soften it until it becomes translucent. Next, add the rice and gently mix for about two minutes, ensuring that the rice is slightly cooked and thoroughly coated in buttery goodness.
Pour the two glasses of wine into the pot; it should sizzle upon contact with the rice. Gently mix the ingredients together.
Continue to stir slowly and carefully. Once most of the wine has been absorbed, start adding the hot stock gradually, using half a ladle at a time, while continuing to mix gently.
Tip: You don’t need to stir constantly—just frequently. Occasionally, you can cover the pot for about 10 seconds to trap steam, which helps accelerate the cooking process while keeping the rice al dente.
After approximately ten minutes, begin tasting the rice. Remove a single grain, bite into it, and check for doneness; it should be cooked but still have a slight bite. Once it reaches this point, turn off the heat.
Allow the rice to rest for about 60 seconds, then stir in the grated cheese and 40 grams of butter. This step, known as mantecatura, should be done with wide, confident strokes to thoroughly combine the ingredients without mashing the rice.
-Pour a generous portion of risotto into each plate, and decorate with a few cubes of Gorgonzola cheese.
Wine pairing - naturally this dish is perfect with a good Barbera wine!
P.S - the original recipe calls for salsiccia (pork sausage), too. I decided to make the vegetarian version, instead, and substituted the pork with some gorgonzola cheese. It was a match made in heaven!
Bonus: Drunken Risotto - Vegan Style
For a delightful twist, replace the salsiccia and Gorgonzola with portobello mushrooms. Begin by sautéing the portobello mushrooms in a separate pan until they are about 80% cooked. In another pot, heat 80 ml of olive oil, then add the rice and stir gently over low heat for 2 minutes. Next, incorporate the sautéed portobello mushrooms into the rice, stirring for an additional 30 seconds. Pour in the wine and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the wine is nearly fully absorbed. Then, add the stock and follow the cooking instructions from the main recipe. For the mantecatua, use vegan cream instead of butter, and sprinkle in a pinch of nutritional yeast to substitute for Parmigiano Reggiano, enhancing the dish with umami flavors.
Buon appetito!
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