How to Make the Perfect Espresso, Like a Real Italian Barista
Brewing a simple cup of coffee isn’t exactly rocket science. However, crafting an exceptional cup—especially without a $2000 professional coffee machine—can be a bit more challenging. Yet, it’s entirely achievable! After spending many years in Italy, I’ve learned that good technique accounts for about 70% of a job well done. So, when I decided to master the art of making a delicious espresso like a true Italian barista, I reached out to my friend Michele Paolicchi, the owner and manager of Capatosta Café in Pisa, Tuscany.
“Coffee has always been my passion, even when I was younger and working as a carpenter,” he says as we settle in for a caffeine-fueled chiacchierata (chat).
“You were a carpenter?” I ask, intrigued.
“Yes, but my thoughts were always on gastronomy,” he replies with a wink. “Initially, I trained as a sommelier, but I eventually shifted my focus to coffee, which has always been my true love. In fact, I might be a bit obsessed—I drink 9 to 10 cups a day,” he admits with a sheepish smile.
For the past decade, Michele and his wife, Michela, have been running this quaint neighborhood café, catering primarily to lawyers from the nearby courthouse and officers from the police headquarters.
After some light banter, it’s time to get down to business. In no time, Michele presents a list of essential rules that every coffee enthusiast should remember if they wish to craft a perfect espresso like a true Italian barista:
1. Quality coffee begins with quality water:
“The quality of your water greatly influences the espresso you brew,” he explains. “If your city has mineral-rich ‘hard water,’ I highly recommend using a purification system that includes both a filter and a water softener. Without this, your coffee will never reach excellence, even with the finest coffee beans. Additionally, hard water can damage your coffee machine,” he warns.
2. Check the weather before you brew:
“Most coffee enthusiasts know that beans should be ground just before brewing to minimize contamination and prevent oxidation, which can degrade the coffee's volatile aromas. The grind size—whether coarse or fine—primarily depends on the bean variety (arabica or robusta) and the roasting method, but it is also influenced by the weather,” he notes. “On humid days, I prefer a slightly finer grind; otherwise, the water flows too quickly, leading to incomplete extraction. Conversely, on dry days, I opt for a coarser grind. These adjustments may seem minor, but they are significant to me. When you consider all these small details, they can profoundly impact the final result.”
3. The ideal amount of ground coffee for your portafilter is 6-7 grams, and it's crucial to pack it down properly:
"The coffee should extract in 28-35 seconds," explains Michele. “If it flows too quickly, the grind size may be too fine, or the portafilter might not be secured tightly enough. In either case, you'll end up with a flavorless liquid. Conversely, if the coffee takes too long to extract, it will burn and develop a bitter taste."
4. What’s the secret to achieving a perfect layer of espresso foam?
“Keep your porcelain espresso cups on the machine to ensure they are heated before pouring the coffee. You’ll notice that most cafés in Italy place their cups on the machine while it operates. This technique keeps them warm, allowing for a beautifully rich layer of foam when the coffee is poured in.”
5. Beware of the complimentary cookie:
“In certain parts of Italy, you might be served a complimentary biscuit or chocolate alongside your espresso. For me, that raises a red flag,” he explains. “While some cafes genuinely enjoy treating their customers to a small delight, in many cases, the sweet offering is merely a disguise for quality issues or an indication that the coffee is just average.”
6. Glass or porcelain: which is better for espresso cups?
“It ultimately comes down to personal preference,” says Michele. “Some argue that glass is more hygienic and less porous than porcelain. However, with everything going into the dishwasher these days, the differences are minimal. One advantage of glass is that it allows you to see the coffee clearly, making it easier to spot any imperfections. In contrast, porcelain retains the drink's temperature for a longer time.”
7. What pairs best with your Italian espresso?
“One of my pastries, of course!” laughs Michele, who has recently begun crafting small batches of traditional Italian morning pastries for his loyal customers. Known as “pezzi dolci” in Italian, these treats include cornetto (the Italian equivalent of a French croissant), sfoglia (a puff pastry filled with apple jam and vanilla-infused cream), and the Tuscan specialty Budino di Riso (a delightful sweet rice pudding cooked in milk—absolutely delicious!). For now, I’m sticking to these classic Italian pastries, he shares. “I named my coffee shop Capatosta after a well-known grape variety from the Marmara region of southern Tuscany, which is used to produce excellent wine. Interestingly, in the Neapolitan dialect, Capatosta means ‘hard head,’ and I suppose that describes me perfectly!" he chuckles.
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