Ristorante Schiaffino is a delightful new entrant in Lucca's vibrant dining scene. Nestled directly across from Puccini’s birthplace, in a quaint alley just off Piazza San Michele, it strikes a perfect balance between accessibility and a hidden charm. If you’re not aware of its presence, you might just walk by without noticing.
For those familiar with Lucca, this location previously housed another excellent restaurant that sadly closed during the Covid-19 pandemic. Rather than giving up, the former staff seized the opportunity, took over the space, and launched their own venture.
Now, Schiaffino is a family-operated establishment: the talented chef Stefano leads the kitchen, his sister Federica serves as the Maitre d’, and her son Luca takes care of the dining room. The restaurant's name honors their father, Ilario, who was affectionately nicknamed “Schiaffino” during his amateur football days in the 1950s for his impressive kicks.
The restaurant itself is intimate, beautifully designed, airy, and modern—a refreshing contrast to the traditional Tuscan eateries that dominate the city. Yet, unlike many contemporary establishments, Schiaffino radiates warmth and welcomes you from the moment you step inside.
The menu is concise yet focused, featuring three antipasti (starters), three primi (first courses), and three secondi (main courses), all of which change seasonally. During my last visit, I savored a poached egg cooked at 63 degrees, paired with potatoes, truffles, and chicken demi-glace; beef tartare; risotto with garlic, chili, and seared scallops; potato gnocchi with saffron and ossobuco ragù; and tagliolini pasta with clams and candied lemon. The secondi offerings included amberjack filet on a bed of cauliflower cream and lentils, oxtail accompanied by tempura artichokes, and a rabbit roll with pumpkin cream and roasted topinambur.
I opted for an antipasto and a primo, and based on Federica’s recommendation, I decided to break with tradition and order a curry and coconut soup—a decidedly un-Italian choice—served with crunchy vegetables and roasted calamari. This was followed by the risotto with scallops. The soup was aromatic and well-balanced, while the calamari was fresh, delicious, and perfectly roasted.
Next up was the risotto, which was outstanding! It was creamy yet retained a slight bite, and the combination of spicy chili and the sweetness of the gently seared scallops blended beautifully. The quality and freshness of the ingredients in both dishes were evident.
A quick confession: I often order risotto at new restaurants to assess the kitchen's skill. Achieving the perfect risotto and properly handling seafood requires solid technical expertise, so these dishes typically offer insight into the chef’s capabilities. In this instance, both were executed flawlessly and absolutely delicious!
For dessert, I faced the tough choice between tiramisu, zuccotto (a semi-frozen Tuscan dessert), and flan di buccellato (a sweetbread typical of Lucca). Though intrigued by all three, I ultimately chose the classic tiramisu—and it did not disappoint! It was decadent yet light and creamy, made with their house-baked savoiardi biscuits. As a delightful bonus, I was also treated to a small pre-dessert: a delightful baba, a Neapolitan rum cake.
So, is this the best restaurant in Lucca? It's tough to single out just one as “the best,” given that I have at least two other favorites in town (check my upcoming guidebook, “Tuscany for the Shameless Hedonist 2024” for more recommendations, or contact me for a personalized itinerary which also includes restaurant recommendations). However, Schiaffino undoubtedly ranks among the top three in Lucca and the surrounding area—5 stars!
Ristorante Schiaffino, Corte San Lorenzo 1, Lucca. Reservations are highly recommended.
Ristorante Schiaffino, Corte San Lorenzo 1, Lucca. Reservations are highly recommended.
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