Florence, the cradle of the Renaissance, is renowned for its exceptional museums. But while millions flock to see famous highlights like the Uffizi Galleries and the Accademia, most visitors overlook the city’s other, somewhat hidden, treasures. There are at least five or six world-class museums and churches in Florence that deserve your attention in Florence, and one of my personal favorites is the Bargello Museum.
Nestled in a narrow alley just minutes from the Palazzo Vecchio—Florence's city hall and a remarkable museum in its own right—the Bargello offers a surprisingly varied collection in a calm, intimate setting that allows for an enjoyable experience away from the crowds. Originally constructed in the 13th century as a fortress, the Bargello still retains its fortified walls, Gothic windows, and imposing architecture, which add to its charm. Over the years this palazzo served various purposes: it was once the seat of the Podestà (the city's magistrates who governed Florence), for example, and the coats of arms decorating the courtyard attest to the presence of those influential families.
The building later transformed into a prison; executions were carried out until the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Peter Leopold, abolished the death penalty in 1786.
In 1865, it became the first National Museum of the newly established Kingdom of Italy, and from the beginning its focus was on the arts of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Today, visitors can admire a rich and varied collection that includes not only some stunning artwork but also weapons, islamic art, seals, fabrics, paintings, ivories, and majolica pieces created by renowned artists.
Among the most iconic works on display are Michelangelo's "Bacchus" (one of the only two surviving sculptures from Michelangelo’s first period in Rome. The other surviving sculpture is the famous pieta) and his "Pitti Tondo”. Even more famous is Donatello's brilliant "David", which is probably the main reason why visitors add the Bargello to their bucket-list.
The Bargello is actually home to two sculptures named David. One is crafted from marble, while the other (the famous one) was cast from bronze later in Donatello's career, on a commission from the Medici family. This bronze sculpture is renowned not only for its artistic importance but also for being the first freestanding nude male sculpture since antiquity. Donatello's interpretation of the story of David and Goliath stands in stark contrast to Michelangelo’s iconic work.
The Bargello museum also showcases some beautifully expressive maiolica (colored ceramics) much of which was made by members of the famed Della Robbia family, as well as pieces by notable artists like Verrocchio (Leonardo da Vinci's teacher), Ghiberti, and Cellini. The Loggia houses some charming works, too, including the Giasone, by Pietro Francavilla.
The Della Robbia section is one of my favorite areas in the museum. Not only because of my passion for maiolica and ceramics (I once spent an entire three hours immersed in the ceramics museum in Faenza, and it was an unforgettable morning!) but mostly because of the storytelling and emotional resonance in some of these pieces.
If you're unfamiliar, the Della Robbia family was a prominent Italian lineage of sculptors, renowned as the leading experts of their time in the technique of glazed polychrome terracotta, which was actually invented by Luca della Robbia (1400-1482). It's believed they may have originated from a lineage of dyers associated with the Florentine guild of dyers, as their name, “robbia,” translates to red dye. Luca's nephew, Andrea della Robbia, along with Andrea's son, Giovanni della Robbia, upheld the family legacy and established their own reputations as distinguished artists.
Clearly, there is much to see and do here. For art enthusiasts, the Bargello Museum is an essential stop on any Florentine itinerary!
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