Visiting a Winery in San Gimignano Run by Two Tuscan Princesses Who Are Related to the Mona Lisa, and tasting the famous Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine
What is Vernaccia di San Gimignano?
Tuscany is renowned for its iconic wines, including the beloved Chianti Classico, the esteemed Brunello di Montalcino, and the celebrated Super Tuscans. While many wine enthusiasts are familiar with other lesser-known Tuscan treasures, such as the elegant Nobile di Montepulciano and the exquisite wines from Bolgheri, Vernaccia di San Gimignano has remained relatively overlooked until recently.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is a remarkable white wine that originates from the picturesque hills surrounding San Gimignano in central Tuscany. It is crafted primarily from at least 85% vernaccia grapes, allowing for specific blends with non-aromatic varietals.
This full-bodied wine is mineral-driven and pleasantly sapid, boasting a surprising complexity that makes it highly enjoyable. Notably, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the only white wine in Tuscany to have attained the prestigious DOCG designation.
The name Vernaccia is likely derived from the Latin term "vernaculum," which means "comes from the place." It's important to note that various vernaccia wines exist throughout Italy, so when referring to this particular wine, it's best to specify "Vernaccia di San Gimignano" to avoid confusion.
Although many wine lovers are just now discovering the allure of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, this ancient wine has a storied history, with production documented in the region for over 800 years.
For centuries, Vernaccia di San Gimignano has been held in high regard, gracing the tables of nobility, clergy, politicians, and artists alike. Esteemed figures such as Dante Alighieri, the Medici family, and even Michelangelo Buonarroti were among its admirers.
The Difference Between a Vernaccia di Base and a Vernaccia Riserva
Vernaccia wines can vary significantly in character, ranging from very simple—perhaps overly so—when subjected to a basic aging process in metal vats for just a few months, to much more complex and intriguing when allowed to age properly.
The young entry-level Vernaccia di BASE is distinguished by its light straw color, balanced acidity, and fresh taste, making it an enjoyable choice for an aperitivo by the beach. In contrast, the RISERVA wine truly highlights the potential of a well-crafted Vernaccia. Aged for a minimum of 11 months, often in oak barrels, followed by an additional 3 months in the bottle, the result is a delightful wine—elegant, full-bodied, and marked by mineral and rocky notes that reflect the unique terroir of the region.
A quality Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva enchants with its distinct floral and fruity aromas, featuring hints of yellow flowers like mimosa and broom, alongside yellow fruits such as apple, pineapple, and ripe peaches. On the palate, it surprises with its mineral flavors, a subtle almond bitterness, and a rounded body. Some Vernaccias even present a hint of saffron, adding to their complexity.
Visiting a Historic Estate to Try Some of the Area’s Renowned Vernaccia di San Gimignano
It’s important to note that around San Gimignano, there are approximately thirty producers, ranging from renowned estates to small family-run wineries. When leading my small groups on wine tasting experiences, I often gravitate towards a few select boutique wineries in this area, as they, in my opinion, produce some of the finest and most intriguing Vernaccia wines available today.
This time, however, I was excited to add a special tasting at Tenuta Cusona - Guicciardini Strozzi, a well-established local winery managed by one of Tuscany's most distinguished noble families. The Cusona estate belongs to the Guicciardini Strozzi family, which has ancient aristocratic roots. Nestled about 10 km from San Gimignano, they primarily focus on Vernaccia grapes, but they also cultivate Sangiovese, as this region is part of the Chianti area, specifically the "Chianti Colli Senesi" hills. Additionally, international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can also be found here.
The same family operates two more wineries located further south in the Maremma region: Tenuta I Massi and Poggio Moreto.
When Noble Families make Tuscan Wine
The Strozzi and Guicciardini families stand out as two of the most renowned noble families in Tuscany, having significantly influenced the region's politics for centuries. The Strozzis were powerful bankers and longstanding adversaries of the Medici family, while the Guicciardini were shrewd politicians; notably, Niccolò Machiavelli, author of the famous "The Prince," served as personal secretary to Francesco Guicciardini.
Like many aristocratic families in Italy, the Strozzi and Guicciardini were united by marriage and chose to diversify their business ventures, establishing extensive agricultural enterprises that included wine production.
In the 1970s, Prince Girolamo Strozzi sought to expand the family wine business further. Today, he manages the estate alongside his wife, Countess Irina, and their two daughters, Princesses Natalia and Irina, named after their mother.
While Natalia pursued ballet in her youth, studying under the esteemed Rudolf Nureyev in the Soviet Union, she ultimately returned to Italy to contribute to the family business. Meanwhile, her sister Irina was drawn to the business world from an early age; she interned with a family friend, former British Prime Minister Tony Blair, and now actively participates in the Consortium dedicated to protecting San Gimignano Vernaccia wine.
Descendants of the Mona Lisa
The Strozzi family is renowned for a unique reason: one of its most illustrious members, Lisa Gherardini, served as the model and inspiration for Leonardo da Vinci’s iconic Mona Lisa painting. The family takes immense pride in this connection, and who can blame them? When you observe Princesses Irina and Natalia standing beside the famous Gioconda, the family resemblance is unmistakable, even with 15 generations between them.
Exploring the Estate and Historic Cellars
The estate tour, priced at 30 euros for a guided experience that includes tastings of three wines and a dessert wine, commences with a visit to the mansion itself. I found this part of the experience particularly captivating, as it provided a glimpse into the past and insights into how the grand Tuscan estates were managed and maintained in bygone times.
The estate functions as a museum, where even the smaller artifacts on display help visitors understand what life was like in those days.
The descent into the underground cellars is equally intriguing. Navigating the steep and slippery stairs—intentionally designed to facilitate the constant movement of wine barrels—feels like stepping back in time.
A highlight of the visit is the tour of the Vinsantaia, where Tuscany’s renowned dessert wine, Vinsanto, is crafted. Vinsanto deserves its own dedicated post, and I look forward to writing about it soon. For now, let me emphasize that it is one of the most challenging wines to produce, demanding considerable time and patience. Aged for a minimum of 6 to 7 years, the barrels remain sealed until the very end—literally glued shut with cement, wax, or both. Only upon opening the barrel can you finally determine whether the wine's quality justifies the long wait of those six years.
Let’s taste the Wine!
After the tour, it's time to savor the wine itself. The guided tasting features two Vernaccia di San Gimignano wines—Vernaccia di Base and Riserva—alongside a glass of their entry-level Chianti delle Colli Senesi and the previously mentioned Vinsanto.
Among the wines we sampled, the 2017 Vernaccia Riserva, crafted from 100% Vernaccia grapes, stood out as the highlight. Aged for a year in French oak barrels and then an additional year in the bottle, this wine is both complex and highly enjoyable. It presents a medium body with mineral notes, accompanied by enticing aromas of white fruits such as peach and pear, along with hints of jasmine flowers and almonds.
The Vinsanto was equally impressive, showcasing a rich bouquet of wildflowers and honey, perfectly balanced by a slight acidity that complements its sweetness.
Is This My New Favorite Estate in San Gimignano?
While I recognize that the wines from the Cusona estate are highly esteemed by local wine critics, I found them to be somewhat disappointing. It's worth noting that the estate’s flagship wines—typically more expensive—are not included in the tasting, though they are available for purchase if you’re interested.
In Summary:
The tour was intriguing, especially for those who appreciate historic estates (which I certainly do!)—8.5/10.
The tasting was enjoyable, but it didn’t quite meet my expectations. I would recommend offering guests something more substantial than just a packet of crackers during the tasting—7.5/10.
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